“We need the tonic of wildness...At the same time that we are earnest to explore and learn all things, we require that all things be mysterious and unexplorable, that land and sea be indefinitely wild, unsurveyed and unfathomed by us because unfathomable. We can never have enough of nature.”

Unexplorable

Exploring | Wandering | Collecting


For two months during spring, Nick and I drove around Scotland, exploring its sites and taking in the magic of this beautiful country.  As a result, we've developed a pretty definitive list of things you'll need to tick off if you've got a visit there on the horizon!



Nicholas getting in touch with his Scottish Heritage

A few times we had intended to go to Edinburgh castle, but this was the day it all came to fruition. We got up nice and early, walked down to the castle and started off with a tour.  The guy's name was James and was, apparently, part of a long line of James' to spend time at the castle.  It was a pretty brief touring, going over some Scottish history that he claimed he wasn't quite so well versed in.  We didn't know any better so we couldn't correct him.

We had a bit of a scope out of the Scottish jewels which were not quite as spectacular as those at the Tower of London, but I was pretty fond of the staff.  Scotland is cool.

Next, Nick and I popped into the Great Hall, where a very Scottish looking lad was giving weapon demonstrations.  Nicholas was lucky enough to be picked (or, I was obvious enough that I wanted him to be picked) to be rugged up in Highlander chic. He had the honour of being a Scottish pigfarmer named Hamish from just outside Inverness, recruited to fight in the Battle of Culloden (like in Outlander).  I think I enjoyed it more than he did.  That’s ok with me.
Nick being kilted up (it takes a man to wear a dress)


You can flip the tartan over your head for a handy hood in cold weather.

Our handy guide demonstrating a great way to stun your opponent if your weapons don't do the trick: just disrobe.  "Because if there's one thing more intimidating than a horde of big, hairy, angry men chargin' towards you, it's a horde of big, hairy, angry naked men."

Just down from a tiny little chapel there was a cemetery for soldier’s dogs.  This made me especially sad but also happy because it reminded me just how much the Scots love their dogs.  There are dogs everywhere in Scotland.  On the odd occasion you see places signed that say they need to be on a lead, but most of the time they just roam free, trotting along by their human’s feet.  It’s amazing.  It’s the best.  I love Scotland.

The cemetery for soldier's dogs.  RIP Scamp.

I bailed early from Edinburgh Castle, leaving Nicholas to look at the war museum section by himself.  I walked past a huge field of daffodils (daffodils are everywhere in Edinburgh) to the High St, where I was having a treatment at the Lush Spa.  In case you’re not aware, I work at Lush and I love Lush (Lush is Love.  Lush is Life).  In some countries (ie not Australia), they have spas that are amazing in everywhere and like tiny English country cottages that smell amazing and serve you tea and jammy dodgers.  I had a treatment called Synaesthesia, based on the condition, which two of the founders have.  It was totally immersive and smelt so good and the massage was also so good.  I love Lush.  It was a good day.

 The 1 o'clock gun so you can synchronise your timekeepers onboard!

Edinburgh and Arthur's Seat 

This whiskey is 13 600 pounds.  POUNDS.  We did some whiskey tasting though.  It was gooooood.

There are lots of pictures of Nicholas in this post.  Here's one of me.

We were thinking about heading to a pub for dinner, but were so relaxed from our spa that we head back to Fergus’ place to watch some Outlander (I watched Outlander.  Nicholas read Sherlock Holmes, even though he totally wanted to watch Outlander).

The next day was Good Friday, so a reasonable day to visit a religious establishment.  Cue: Rosslyn Chapel.  The weather was pretty miserable and we had to run for our bus.  The staff at the Chapel were incredibly sweet little old women.  One annoying thing about Scotland is that most places only give you concession access if you’re  a) really old, b) disabled.  Students don’t count.  At the Chapel, I asked if I could get concession entry with a student card, she asked if Nicholas and I were both students, we said only me, and she waved her hand and gave us two student tickets anyway.

Then she said, “Now, today is Good Friday so there will be quite a few people in there praying.”

We nodded, expecting her to inform us that we needed to be quiet, pay our respects, etc.

“Just ignore them.  They’ll finish up about three.  Have a good day,” she said.  It wasn’t what we expected.

We went inside, were handed a pair of audio guides by another friendly old lady, and started making our way around the Chapel.  It really is an incredibly detailed carved Chapel.  This was all very beautiful and there were some cool stories behind some of the carvings (all the info could be found in pictures and videos outside the Chapel: it was very high tech) but there was also a cat.  The cats always win in my book.

The Chapel

Standing outside the Chapel

So many daffodils in Scotland right now!


I’ll tell you one thing about the Chapel before I tell you about the cat.  There was a pillar that a stonemason had made, and he requested his apprentice make another.  Basically, when the mason went away for a while, the apprentice made one that was a million times better and, when the mason returned, he was so mad about being upstaged that he hit him over the head with a stonemasonry tool and killed him.  Here’s a less bastardised version of the same story I found on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosslyn_Chapel#Apprentice_pillar

Back to the cat.  One Sunday, a family from the town of Roslin wandered to the Chapel and their little black and white kitten followed them.  They left.  The cat found the place fitting and stayed.  Perhaps ironically, or perhaps they changed it after they adopted him, his name was William (William St Clair was the founder of the Chapel).  Another friendly and tiny old lady distracted William from the pats Nicholas and I were showering him with to give him biscuits.  She started telling us a host of stories about the quite large tuxedo cat.

On one occasion, a lady was getting married in the Chapel in a beautiful designer gown with a long train.  They asked her if she wanted them to relocate William for the service and she said he was fine to stay in the pews, where he usually liked to sit.  As she processed down the aisle, William decided to take a ride on her train and then curled up for a sleep during the “I do”s.

On another occasion, he brought in a half eaten rabbit and dropped it by the altar during Eucharist.  I couldn’t make this stuff up if I tried.

You can't take pictures inside the Chapel, where William was, so I pinched this one off the internet.

After Rosslyn Chapel, we felt a bit obliged to see a few landmarks and monuments that we hadn't had a chance to see yet.  I couldn't tell you what they were for or who commissioned them or what they were called.  It was really cold and I was feeling a bit bus sick from the trip to Rosslyn.  Here's a couple of pictures. (I wrote this before I looked through the pictures and there were very few of the monuments and just a lot of me, which shows you were Nicholas' priorities were)

Me in front of Edinburgh

Holyrood Palace (which we also never had time to see)

One of the aforementioned monuments














Nick at the base of Arthur's Seat

 Today’s forecast was predominantly sunny (with the possibility of a shower) so we decided to brave the cold and wind to climb Arthur’s Seat.  The guy who wrote Treasure Island described it as “a hill for magnitude, a mount in virture of its bold design.”  There are lots of mountains and bold landscapes in Treasure Island, so I guess he would know his mountains and bold landscapes.


The coolest thing about Arthur’s Seat is that it’s one of the proposed locations for Camelot (thus: Arthur’s Seat).  Other than that, it has some pretty cool ruins, it’s rugged and its base is probably 500m from Fergus’ place.  We didn’t have an excuse not to go.


Look at those locks.  Such Scottish.

While we were standing at the base of the mountain, Nicholas said, "it's our first mountain climb in Scotland."

"It's hardly a mountain," I replied.  Arthur's Seat is about 500m (probably) high.

"Look! That's a freaking mountain," said Nick, point at the mountain (above).

The first step to effectively climbing a mountain is to tie your shoelaces.  Here's me demonstrating this very important process. 

While relatively dry, the climb to the top was extremely windy.  We'd read reviews on the climb and people noted it was a pretty easy climb and a pretty quick one.  We would've gone much faster if Aeolus wasn't trying to kill us.  My goretex jacket turned me into a human sail and I kept getting caught on the wind and physically bowled over.  It was nuts.  The sight was really lovely when we got to the top though, and we can see why Arthur was supposedly so fond of it.  From one side, Edinburgh stretches out in front of you, all strangely layered upon itself.  From the other, you can see the North Sea (also known as the bringer of the deadly wind).

We needed to sit down and have a small rest once we had reached the top, mostly so that we could avoid being knocked over.  I got the best seat in the house.

I am Arthur! I am on his seat!

From Arthur's Seat, you can see a little ruin.  More on that later.

Just as we reached the top of Arthur's Seat, a rainbow stretched its way over the cliff below. 


Edinburgh from Arthur's Seat.  On the left you can see Edinburgh, and on the right you can see the sea.

Nicholas being an explorer

Our grassy spot (that's Arthur's Seat in the background)

We kept on walking, down and up the smaller mountain/cliff beside Arthur's Seat.  This one was much less crowded than Arthur's Seat (which was still relatively quiet, just lots of locals and their many, many dogs).  Some insane people were jogging up and down in minimal clothing (how?).  One such man stopped to allow me to awkwardly clamour down the rocky 'short cut' we had found.  Perhaps he was just looking for an excuse to take a break because he was puffing.

"Hello!" I said.

"Hallooo!" he said.  "Did you get to the top?  How's the weather up there?"

I explained that it was windy and I mustn't have sounded very Scottish in doing so, because he asked how long we were in Scotland.  He was from an isle of the north western coast of Scotland.  He said it's beautiful.  I wanted to tell him 'of course it's beautiful, it's SCOTLAND' but I didn't.

We found ourselves a cozy, grassy spot to sit, sheltered from the wind by a big mossy boulder.  We sat here for about an hour, lamenting our idiocy in not bringing any snacks to eat, but also discussing that we should go and check out the ruin.

A better shot of the view from our relaxing spot

The sleet-bearing cloud 

In typical Edinburgh fashion, the weather started to turn.  Just before it did, Nicholas (naively) said, "wow, we've had such good weather today!"

"Don't speak too soon," I said.  "Look at that cloud coming in."

"It'll be fine!"

"It'll be sleeting in two minutes!" I joked.

It started sleeting exactly then.

Thirty seconds after the sleet begun, it ended and the sun came out.  If we hadn't got a picture of the cloud rolling in, you could've thought the whole thing had never happened.

The ruin turned out to be a chapel/possibly a skin clinic of some kind from the 15th century.  That was pretty cool.  One lady was sitting in the ruin having her lunch, which was pretty inconsiderate to the tourists, really.  Another lady was sitting by the ruin in prayer, which was a forgivable offence, seeing as it was potentially a chapel and all.  I used really advanced photographic techniques to omit them all from the photos (even the Chinese tourists with their selfie sticks).

The ruin.  You can see the lady praying on the very righthand side.

The ruin from by the loch at the base of the hill

On our way back to Fergus' house, we stumbled across an old well (we thought it might've led to some other kind of dimension or something.  It's very easy for this to be a logical conclusion in Scotland.  It's pretty magical).  We hung out there for a bit and Nicholas attempted to fish manky coins out of the bowl in front of the well until I reprimanded him enough. I took some not-so-macro shots of all the moss in the well with our not-so-macro lens.  

We popped back by Fergus' place to have some lunch and had great intentions to somewhere else in the afternoon, but my '20 minute power nap' turned into 3 hours and then we just watched some more Doctor Who on the Horror channel on Fergus' cable TV.  The Horror channel has this weird woman who plays a bastardised Elvira, without the hair, introducing you to the next program.  She's not as sexy as Elvira either.  British TV is actually quite weird.

Mary's Well

Moss

Moss V2



In Edinburgh there's a cafe called The Elephant House, where JK Rowling has cited as the location she penned some of Harry Potter.  When I was about 9 years old and read The Unofficial JK Rowling Biography, which told of her being destitute and rocking her daughter to sleep while writing stories in a cafe, it inspired me to do things like write as well.  It was only natural that we go to visit.

Edinburgh Castle from the much-coveted window seat at the Elephant House.  Look at that pristine weather!

If I thought Edinburgh liked to capitalise on their ghostly notoriety, it was nothing in comparison to the Elephant Cafe riding the Harry Potter success story.  From tours, to tour buses stopping outside, to t-shirts worn by the very inattentive young girls who served us, it was all 'the birthplace of Harry Potter'.  Nicholas had crappy reheated (but still cold) pancakes, and I bypassed the overpriced breakfast options for a lukewarm soy 'hot' chocolate.  This put me down in the dumps really, and I was grumpy about spending money on crappy beverages and why wouldn't Nicholas go and ask for fresh pancakes and why are the chairs so uncomfortable and why would that couple sit by the window when I am so obviously waiting to sit at the window???

We left a scathing review on Urbanspoon.

I thought it'd put me in a bad mood for the rest of the day and was looking for a reason that coming all the way in the freezing cold. Then I used to the toilet in the cafe and found aforementioned reason.





I was innocently trying to do a wee and I just started crying actual, genuine tears.  When I had composed myself and walked out of the toilet, Nicholas said, "Have you been crying?"

As I'm sure you know, the worst thing somebody can do if you're trying not to cry is to address the fact that you're crying and I was so embarrassed because of all the other people in the cafe and I didn't want to admit that I'd just come to a cafe and started uncontrollably weeping over my love of Harry Potter.  That's embarrassing.

"I can't talk about it."

Nicholas thought something was, you know, genuinely upsetting and got really worried and I just kept shaking my head and saying that I couldn't talk about it in here.  

"Is it just because you're in Scotland?" he asked.

"I love Harry Potter," I replied.

I started crying again.  It was embarrassing.

This was after I had stopped crying.

Harry Potter is Life.  Harry Potter is Love.

We had hoped to head up to Edinburgh Castle for the day, because the weather is looking pretty rubbish and we wanted to stay indoors.  I think a bus of Chinese tourists had appeared 5 minutes before we did, so we decided to put that off for another day and head to the Fruitmarket Gallery, which is a contemporary art gallery nearby.

At this point, the weather was looking pretty nice.  Quite sunny, it was starting to warm up.  Don't trust it.  Never trust it. (we probably would've trusted it if we hadn't got a weather warning on our phone)

I forgot to mention that when Nicholas and I went to the camping shop, I bought the same shoes as him because I'm a copycat.

The Fruitmarket Gallery had a really wonderful bookshop with lots of books about cats and art (two of my favourite things, as we all know).  The art was also pretty good.  It was a collection of Brazilian works using objects.  One work was a collection of impractical squeegees. It was super cool.

From there we wandered down to the gallery that is usually the Portrait Gallery, but was currently showing a heap of work by Scotland's most recent art school graduates.  Some of it was really cool, some of it was total crap.  Nicholas and I tended to agree on the total crap part, but there were a couple of works that left us divided.  One work I really liked was a double channel video piece that juxtaposed museum specimens and scientific objects with mundane soccer playing and what looked like the Hebrides and some horses/cows.  The voice over was really nice and was spoken by a heap of (what sounded like professors).  I considered buying the video copy, but it was 30 pounds and I'm saving money to spend at Loch Ness.
This is when the weather started to turn, so we sought shelter at the same cafe we've been frequenting with the good soup and good sandwiches and blueberry scones.  I think they know us now.  It started to snow.

Beautiful, sunny, slightly cloudy skies.



Snow.

Edinburgh reminds me a lot of Melbourne, but more extreme.  Old buildings in Melbourne, Edinburgh's are older.  Melbourne's weather is ridiculous, Edinburgh's weather is even
more ridiculous.

For dinner we made traditional Scottish fare! (veggie) haggis with neeps (turnips) and tatties (potatoes).  We roasted them in the lavender salt we got from Hoxton St Monster supplies and it was delicious.  We had it with some Irn Bru (Scottish creaming soda, complete with tartan packaging, that can be purchased in various clan colours) while watching vintage Dr Who (Peter Davidson).  Feeling well British.  ;)

I don't know about the original haggis, but the vegetarian version is pretty tasty.




St Giles Cathedral

Apparently Scotland (Edinburgh in particular) is really haunted.  Like, super haunted.  They like to capitalise on this. A lot.  There are ghost tours leaving from every which way on any given day (most on the half hour).  We took Susan Henderson's advice and opted to visit Mary King's Close, which was a seemingly tiny street (though the second largest when it was built - second only to the Royal Mile) cut off at the second story to make room for the chamber of commerce.  There's a completely blocked off street lying under the banks now, complete with houses and windows and foam sculptures of plague victims (they came in the early 2000's when they decided to turn it into a tourist attraction).

I'm getting a bit ahead of myself though.  Before we visited the close, we strolled through the Newtown shops and went to St Giles Cathedral.  We've been incredibly lucky with weather so far and could take advantage of the sun streaming through the stained glass windows.  Technically we couldn't take photos, so these are stealth shots.

 The sunlight in St Giles Cathedral

Lighting up a marble post in somebody's crypt

The walk on the way to the Newtown shops

I love the way the city is completely juxtaposed with rugged cliffs and castles.  It's very easy to see why people believe there is magic + ghosts here.

There are also some really wonderful pubs in Edinburgh.  Nicholas takes pictures of all the ones with rude names (there are many).  I liked this one.  "The Black Cat".

We've found ourselves grow very attached to a little cafe called Latitude Coffee.  They serve blueberry scones which are amazing, and do a pretty good sandwich + soup combo.  10/10.  We've been back almost every day for lunch, which is usually the only meal we eat out for.  

Once the sun had gone down we went to Mary King's Close.  There are all kinds of creepy rumours that circulate about the close.  Some people say that when the street was covered over, they used the hundreds of dead plague victims as reinforcement in the structures.  Others tell of ghosts crying out from beneath the floor.  Our guide told of one ghost living in the street, a young girl named Annie, who tugged on the pants of a Japanese medium who visited the site a few years ago.  Apparently, she had been left there with 'the sickness' to die and found no solace with no family and no toys to play with.  The medium returned with a Barbie, which brightened her up immediately.  Since then, people constantly bring her dolls and toys and boy band memorabilia (from Westlife to One Direction - I guess she has years of boy bands to catch up on).  Our guide insisted there would be a toy avalanche one day, and he wanted to be around to see it.

There were no photos allowed to be taken in the close (a rule of the establishments upstairs, given Britain's history of underground treason).  Neither Nick nor I saw a ghost, but it was unnerving being down there.  I always get tingles when I touch really old things (walls, tools, cobblestones).

The next day was Sunday and Nicholas and I went to the National Gallery of Scotland.  There was a lot of the same things as we saw in the British Gallery, except for a room of Scottish work downstairs.  This work featured a lot of dogs, but illustrated very similar scenarios to any other 18th/19th century artwork.

This room was the nicest room in the gallery, if I do say so myself.

I don't even know what's going on here, but there you go

Dog

Dog

Dog

Dog

Dog

2 dogs

Dog

Dog

Dog

Sculpture of a dog

Dog

 Dog

Dog

2 dogs

Dog

Dog

Dog

Dog

Another thing I really liked about the gallery (apart from the numerous dogs) was the colour of the walls.  It doesn't quite look like it in the photographs below, but they were painted the same colour as my end of year installation at art school.  I really like that colour.  I call it 'institutional green'.  Dulux call it 'misty moor' (my friends at uni consider this to be the hippy little sister of Mandy Moore).

My end of year installation

The walls in the gallery (the lightning/bad camera quality makes them look a different colour!)

This girl agrees with me.  I rate her 10/10

The next day, Sunday, Fergus took us to a big camping shop just north of Edinburgh.  I don't know if I told you much about Fergus, but he's a very friendly chap.  He waited around for us for hours to pick out all of our camping gear, even though Nicholas spent just as many hours (no, more) on the computer the night before, picking out everything we needed, including brands and prices.  Nicholas puts as much time and energy into buying a pair of shoes or a jacket or a tent as most people put into buying a new car.

To be fair, there was a lot that went into buying a tent.  We recently found out that there are still snow storms in the Cairngorms (where we plan to camp in a week's time), so we needed a tent that could withstand cold weather, but not be too heavy.  We ended up going with this tent which will hopefully save us from hypothermia, etc.  It's also quite pretty and very water resistant.  It'll probably rain a lot as we come down the west coast.  Gotta be prepared! 

We also went to a shop called Asda, where Nick bought Ben and Jerry's ice cream, because it's much cheaper here (even though the dollar is terrible).  He's a force to be reckoned with when it comes to sweet food.

Our new home for the next few months!



BONUS PICTURE:
Nick honouring his previous incarnations and becoming one with his other self.