“We need the tonic of wildness...At the same time that we are earnest to explore and learn all things, we require that all things be mysterious and unexplorable, that land and sea be indefinitely wild, unsurveyed and unfathomed by us because unfathomable. We can never have enough of nature.”

Unexplorable

Exploring | Wandering | Collecting

Travelling by Hurtigruten? Read this first!

By 02:12 , , , ,


The Hurtigruten exemplifies Norway.  Whether it’s sitting in a Jacuzzi in the midnight sun, passing by snowcapped mountains and dramatic fjords or sipping Hot Toddy’s under the dazzling Northern Lights, the Hurtigruten provides the perfect mix of rugged landscape, luxury and arctic intrigue.

Norway’s Hurtigruten has come a long way since the ferries first sailed in the 1890’s.  The cargo and passenger ships began to travel up the length of the Norwegian coastline to enable small coastal towns a means of transporting goods, and moving about.  By the 1980’s, small airports had popped up all over Norway and its roads were far more efficient, so the role of the Hurtigruten changed.  Now it caters to a luxury market, offering cruises from Bergen to Kirkenes with newer boats sporting Jacuzzis and elegant bars. 

Even though the Hurtigruten is notoriously expensive – Norwegians I spoke to said it was pricey... even for Norway – there are ways to enjoy this iconic piece of Norway if you’re travelling with limited funds.  On my stint in the fjords in June this year, I journeyed up the coast on three different vessels – the MS Richard With (named for the founder of Hurtigruten), the MS Trollfjord (named after an iconic narrow fjord) and the MS Nordlys (Nordlys means ‘Northern Lights’).


When organising my travels, I booked my leg on the MS Trollfjord specifically – this is quite a new boat, and it shows.  Glass elevators, huge windows, fairylights twinkling in the ceiling, two hot tubs on the top deck… this boat had it all.  I spent two nights onboard the MS Trollfjord, cruising from Ã…lesund through the Geirangerfjord, past Trondheim and Bodø and up to the Lofoten Islands.

That’s the first thing worth noting: the boats aren’t all the same.  If you’re after something truly memorable, play your cards so you’re on one of the Millenia boats.  That’s not to say that the other ships in the fleet aren’t decadent – they are – but being aboard the MS Trollfjord was something else entirely.


The second thing is that you don’t have to book a 6 or 11 day cruise.  In fact, I’d recommend against it.  Even if you’re planning a trip of utter luxury with no expense spared, you’re going to miss some of the best bits of Norway if you don’t enjoy some longer stops along the way.   You can book port-to-port trips (for example, I went port-to-port from Ã…lesund to Svolvær in the Lofotens) which range from a few hours to a few days, depending on the length of your journey.  When I was finished in the Lofoten Islands, I got another port-to-port from Svolvær to Tromsø.  You can often score some great deals when travelling port-to-port for a day or two.


If you’re travelling for a short amount of time, consider your need for a cabin. For day journeys, you definitely don’t need one.  It’s perfectly safe to leave your luggage in the luggage hold, or keep it on you.  The Hurtigruten website states that you need to book a cabin for overnight trips, but you can still select ‘no cabin’ on trips spanning one night.  Whether you’re travelling in summer and can soak up the midnight sun, or travelling in winter and can spend the night gazing at the Northern Lights, a night spent without a cabin is perfectly fine (and I guarantee you won’t be the only one napping on a couch in the early hours of the morning).  


I’d also recommend booking through the Norwegian site.  Now I’m not sure if it was all down to the exchange rate, but I saved a few hundred dollars by booking through the Norwegian website and letting Google translate tell us what was going on.  Open it up in your native language, make sure you know what you’re booking (some of the translations were a bit questionable), then follow the same steps in Norwegian.

As for excursions, food and drink – do what you will.  I chose to save my pennies on these things and soak up the Lofoten goodness for four days, and had a more magical time than I could’ve anticipated.  These things are all overpriced, but extremely convenient.  You're totally welcome to bring your own food onboard, but are encouraged to eat it in your cabin.


 

I’d definitely recommend scheduling a trip on the Hurtigruten into your Norway itinerary!  

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